
Family-run homestays like the Malabar Home Stay have been reviving Jaffna as a cultural travel destination since the civil war ended in 2009. To understand Jaffna’s nuanced history, visit the restored Jaffna Public Library, which was set on fire during the war; the pentagonal-shaped Jaffna Fort, originally built by the Portuguese in 1619; and the two bunkers turned into museums at the luxury Fox Jaffna resort.
An hour-long ferry from Jaffna is tiny Delft. With a shallow reef, coral-fenced houses and homestays like the Delft Village Stay, the sleepy island is ideal to slowly cycle around between home-cooked meals.